Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield are updating volume II of their Cascade climbing guide for a reprint. If you've noticed anything in that guide book that is incorrect or out of date, the authors would welcome a response. Simply reply to this post with any updates so that we can keep the guide book current. Thanks everyone.

Silent Running now has a seventh pitch (a really good one too).

As previously mentioned I would suggest a more direct approach from the Maude-7FJ Col.... dropping only about 100-200 feet and cutting straight across to access the N. Face. I would also strongly suggest changing the descent description to the ascent standard trail as the all descent gullys from top of Maude are loose and dangerous and don't save that much time.

Another one... on Jberg. I would change the descent description slightly. One should stay as close to the Ridge crest as possible for most of the descent. From the current description we dropped down to far initially but in reality you don't drop at all from the summit notch you just stay on the E. ridge crest which is very cool (ridge running 3rd class)

I would agree with that. It's easier with less loose rock (less being relative) and its more fun.

The Photos of the Banks Lake ice climbs are mis-labeled, from what I can tell. The one labelled Absent Minded Professor appears to be Zenith, from what I can tell having been to Banks just once, with the Washington Ice Climbs book.

Local Banks climbers please correct me if I'm wrong.

On page 207 for Mt Baker, you have a line going straight through the coleman icefall. That would take days.

I would add Yoccum on Hood becuause it is a much desired climb in a largely populated area, not in the beckey or kearney guides and gets a crap description elsewhere.

Yocum Ridge is already included in Nelson's Vol I. Second Edition.

For Sloan's Corkscrew Route, I think the approach from Bedal Creek is better, mainly because you don't have to do that river crossing.

The approach to Greybeard's N.Face should not be done on skiis (youch!) and isn't a grade III approach, more like a grade II (only an hour or so). See Colin's descent info on his solo TR for a good way off.

I know Mt. Goode is not in Vol II; however, if the authors decide to put NE Buttress of Mt. Goode in future editions, then that is fine, but please do not recommend the Bedayn Couloir as a descent as it says for one option in the first edition. The Bedayn Couloir is horrendous for a rappel--and I wish no one to do this descent route. The Southeast Ridge Descent as described in Beckey #2 is a much better rappel/descent choice.

Downclimbing the route is a heck of a good option for Goode.

Yokum Ridge IS in the second edition of Volume 1.

Please consider the option of taking and documenting the details for the eastern approach to Maude NF instead of the 7FG Maude col.

I dont have a 2 book or any more of my SCC books since people\friends have borrowed them...

They are nice books.

About the Goode descent: That was fixed in the second edition of Volume I, which came out last year. Back in 1990, when we first wrote Volume I of the guidebook, everybody went down the Bedayne. And it sucks for sure, I've been in it. That's why we're soliciting suggestions for the reprint of Volume II, we're always looking for the best, newest information. So thanks everyone. Peter P.

Thanks everybody. These are all very helpfull, but I know there are more details we can clean up. Please let us have it. Sorry about screwing up the Maude approach and descent info. and a few other things, but your suggestions can really help.

Please post your suggestions here, or you can email us at info@ProMountainSports.com

Cheers,

Jim Nelson

I'm gonna sound whiney but.....the cover shot is lame

Guy doing overhanging rappel in Tatoosh Range. Carrying no gear to speak of, maybe crampons? (don't have it in front of me)

Maybe there really is some peak there that requires overhanging rappell to get off of.

Maybe he left all his gear at the base and is now returning to it.

The impression it leaves however is...staged photo shoot of sport rappeller. Lame. Might look good in REI catalog.

There are plenty of good photographs and photographers out there. Use a shot of someone(s) actually climbing, preferrably on something a little grander, maybe even something in the book?!

Other than the creek crossing higher up, skis work fine. Also skis give you the option of ski touring instead if the north face isn't in condition. Easy Pass and the surrounding area make for fine turns. This is what we did when it was too warm on our first attempt.

Here are just a couple of nitpicks...not sure if this is the type of stuff you're looking for.

*Cutthroat peak, east coulior
minor suggestion,but it may be worth noting that since the route gets the morning sun, and you'll be most likely climbing in april/may, an early start is esential. Climbers should plan to be at the bottom of the coulior as the sun rises unless you get a really cold day. Ya also might want to add pins specifically to the gear list. I know it says rock pro, but considering we used pins almost exclusively, the tip may help.

*Sherpa Peak, North Ridge
May be worth a note that the NR can be easily climbed from the standard camp in upper mountaineer creek beneath the sherpa glacier as well as the mentioned basin. We chose this approach since the "trail" is much more maintained due to the stuart traffic.

*Whitehorse Mountain
Ya may want to add an approach note about the Mine road...it's getting pretty beat up. Getting up it in a standard clearance vehicle is probably pretty difficult now. It doesn't look like the maintain it, but who knows.

The climbs with approaches crossing the cascade river may need a slight update too. The forest we were all used to walking through for a few hundred feet is now gone due to the rainstorm.

Colchuck Lake sux on skiis too.