Great Deals

Backcountry Gear Thanksgiving Sale!!!

See more deals!


Mountain Pr0n
Davis Peak, below th...
Davis Peak, below th...
Contributed by: Ade
more photos
Supporting Sponsors




Mammut 6mm slings, now in stock!

For Rob
Past 24 Hrs Topics w/spray
CC.com Articles *READ ME!*
Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy
PayPal
Who's Online
20 Registered (Benny, Bigtree, BirdDog, Calder, DavidHiers, 6 invisible), 19 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
16350 Members
49 Forums
64388 Topics
857106 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
off_the_hook 50
tvashtarkatena 50
ivan 45
catbirdseat 43
gapertimmy 42
G-spotter 39
layton 37
Gary_Yngve 36
Blake 35
zoroastr 34
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#702415 - 07/11/07 01:07 PM [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007
castlecrag Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/04
Posts: 53
TRs: 1 Photos: 33
Loc: outside your window @ night
Trip: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book

Date: 7/5/2007

Trip Report:
Spent a couple days last week out in the Sawtooth's last week. One intriguing line I had yet to sink my paws into was the sunrise book on the Elephant's Perch.



After driving thru the night from PDX....It sure was nice to see the dock at redfish lake lodge once again




After a quick ride across the lake, we hit the trail. The same trail where my wife and I got engaged two years ago. This scene was re-enacted oh so well in one of John's TR’s from last year.

TR here




That afternoon, we decided to take it easy and enjoy what the sawtooths had to offer. Did some swimming and even pulled out the fly rod landing a few lil brookies that evening. Don't worry ...I threw em back





Next morning we set out for the sunrise book. After a short hike up the gully, we were off. Although short by sawtooth standards, Sunrise Book is one of the most aesthetic lines on the perch with a right facing corner for most of the route, capped by a chimney/roof on the final pitch

P1 (5.9+): nice warmup for the more sustained pitches above. Two mini cruxes on the pitch kept things interesting One short 5.9+ section down low, followed by a small roof right below the comfy belay

P2: 5.8 -> A1 or 5.12-. P2 started out pretty chill, then came the aid section. Considering I’m not much of an aid climber, things went pretty smooth. Protect pretty easy with small nuts and tcu’s (up to yellow) or small aliens (up to red)


Here's Christina rodeoing up the short aid section



P3: 5.9++: flaring corner crack that was good to protect, but I found the jams less than straightforward.

P4: 5.10-: Perfect hand jams up the open book, which takes you into a deep chimney for the next belay. This pitch felt much more relaxing than the pitch below

P4


P5: 5.9+: some chimey fun gets you just below the roof, which protects really nice. Then it’s another 40 feet or so of smooth sailing to the top

P4 and P5 could be combined, but I decided rope drag coulda got a bit nasty, and stuck with the standard plan

Capped off the trip by a lil trip to Bend to see a living legend before he bids us goodnight




Can't wait till I return

Gear Notes:
- C4's up to 3", doubles in the hand sizes. My #4 C4 was a boat anchor, a set of aliens, plus a few extra tcu's and small nuts for the aid
- 4 wt rod
- Lots of D.E.E.T. Mosiquitos are nasty this year!



Approach Notes:
chill


Edited by castlecrag (07/11/07 01:11 PM)

Top
#702426 - 07/11/07 01:28 PM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007 [Re: castlecrag]
John Frieh Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 4863
TRs: 22 Photos: 696
Loc: PDX
Drive all the way to Idaho to climb? Are you crazy? ;\)

Nice Kirb! Great TR! Did you get a contact high from Willie?

Top
#702433 - 07/11/07 02:01 PM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007 [Re: John Frieh]
powderhound Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 685
TRs: 13 Photos: 153
Loc: wandr'in
Did you take any whippers out there!!!

Top
#702926 - 07/12/07 09:06 PM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Bo [Re: powderhound]
billcoe Offline
sprayer

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 6310
TRs: 2 Photos: 311
Loc: pdx
Sweet stuff Kirby! Way to cruise successfully in climbing pants with your SO. (spoken sotto voice ala Dan Akroyd/Steve Martin style) .

Top
#702974 - 07/13/07 01:31 AM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Bo [Re: billcoe]
powderhound Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 685
TRs: 13 Photos: 153
Loc: wandr'in
Getting into that boat is a feeling all in its own, sounds like a sweet route.

Top
#703064 - 07/13/07 09:57 AM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Bo [Re: castlecrag]
marcus Offline
member

Registered: 11/25/02
Posts: 178
TRs: 7 Photos: 33
Loc: Portland, OR
Originally Posted By: castlecrag

Capped off the trip by a lil trip to Bend to see a living legend before he bids us goodnight






Why...is The Red-Headed Stranger getting sleepy?

Top
#703067 - 07/13/07 10:14 AM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Bo [Re: marcus]
Winter Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2191
TRs: 15 Photos: 151
Loc: freshiez!
he's not dying - he just plays off beat on purpose.
_________________________
chriswinter.blogspot.com

Top
#703181 - 07/13/07 01:44 PM Re: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Bo [Re: Winter]
castlecrag Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/04
Posts: 53
TRs: 1 Photos: 33
Loc: outside your window @ night
Willie's still got some life in him...that's for sure. The dude on the right hand side of the pic is one of his sons (one of many I'm sure). Pretty decent on the guitar, but his voice...not so much

For a shorter route on the perch, Sunrise Book definitely has a good mix of climbing on it.

hound...I'll save the whippers for the direct beckey line

Top