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#805752 - 06/11/08 11:30 AM
tips for alpine newbies
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old hand
Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 816
TRs: 10
Photos: 168
Loc: The Emerald City
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Be safe as you gain experience. Epics are surely more memorable than uneventful outings, but don't let them kill you. These two simple things could save your life: Pay attention to the weather. You can die of hypothermia at any time of year. Froze to death on Rainier in June storm and Died on Hood in giant winter stormIt's OK to turn around or back off a climb. You can always come back to it later.Turned around when rockfall cut the rope and From this thread, "...We hiked in to do N Ridge Sherpa but were met by wet, icy, snowy rock. We managed a couple of pitches but we were moving very slowly. I smelled an epic in the making so we bailed before we got too committed. It was a great day in the hills none the less." Now go have fun out there! 
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The men who hold high places must be the ones who start to mold a new reality closer to the heart.
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#805874 - 06/11/08 02:02 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Rad]
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sprayer
Registered: 02/22/02
Posts: 5336
TRs: 5
Photos: 119
Loc: Redmond WA
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I fell into fairly serious hypothermia once in the middle of the Bob on a ski trip. The scariest thing about it was the total lack of awareness that I was wandering without purpose or direction and in serious trouble. It was very comfortable. Until I started warming up by a bonfire my friends built.
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You can't handle this.
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#805942 - 06/11/08 03:41 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: DRep]
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spray'prentice
Registered: 07/27/06
Posts: 3024
TRs: 11
Photos: 47
Loc: Seattle, WA
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The hills are NOT alive with the sound of music. However, if you must sing, please limit your musical stylings to bad 70's funk, poorly renditioned 80's pop songs, or lounge classics.
Whistling the theme song from Indiana Jones, however, is perfectly acceptable, but only while on rappel.
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American Hero
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#806028 - 06/11/08 08:13 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: rob]
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sprayer
Registered: 02/22/02
Posts: 5336
TRs: 5
Photos: 119
Loc: Redmond WA
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Stash some hard candies in a baggie in a hidden pocket for emergencies. A few extra calories make a big difference on a cold night.
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You can't handle this.
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#806034 - 06/11/08 08:24 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: rob]
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old hand
Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 816
TRs: 10
Photos: 168
Loc: The Emerald City
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Whistling the theme song from Indiana Jones, however, is perfectly acceptable, but only while on rappel. The Mission Impossible theme is for twilight 4th class descents without a headlamp.
_________________________
The men who hold high places must be the ones who start to mold a new reality closer to the heart.
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#806076 - 06/11/08 09:23 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Rad]
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addicted to cc.com
Registered: 04/11/08
Posts: 677
TRs: 15
Photos: 37
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I like singing 'come on feel the noize' 'rock you like a hurricane' when im on cliffs but the all time panic song for me is 'you shook me all night long'
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"I climb much harder in my posts than I do in real life."
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#806108 - 06/11/08 10:14 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Bug]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 10/22/04
Posts: 1616
TRs: 1
Photos: 21
Loc: Portland
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Stash some hard candies in a baggie in a hidden pocket for emergencies. A few extra calories make a big difference on a cold night. Excellent tip. It's amazing what a little sweet can do for your energy level and your morale. 
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#806983 - 06/13/08 11:12 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Rad]
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journeyman
Registered: 12/14/07
Posts: 56
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: Benton City, WA
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If I might add one more tip; keep your group together, don't split up. I have encountered this situation more than once and it is very uncomfortable. When others chose to lead the way even though I knew it was the wrong direction I followed rather than split up. Eventually they realized we were headed the wrong way and I was able to re-direct and hike out. Obviously, don't follow into danger.
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If I knew I would live this long, I would have taken better care of myself.
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#807080 - 06/14/08 09:31 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: spotly]
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sprayer
Registered: 09/25/06
Posts: 9252
TRs: 50
Photos: 0
Loc: ked in a fragrant embrace
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Bring a fresh pair of earplugs for your partner in the likely event that your deviated septum bursts into the Flight of the Valkyries at 1:00 a.m., or in case you just can't shut the fuck up during waking hours.
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King of All the Ass Candles
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#807109 - 06/15/08 09:28 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: ashw_justin]
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journeyman
Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 72
TRs: 4
Photos: 168
Loc: Puyallup, WA
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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end (Whymper, 1871)
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Keith A. Henson AAC
Turn back before it's too late!
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#807497 - 06/17/08 06:04 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Keith_Henson]
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spray'prentice
Registered: 05/09/03
Posts: 2964
TRs: 14
Photos: 281
Loc: Dhaka, Bangladesh
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#808041 - 06/18/08 10:10 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Edlinger]
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Spray Master
Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 10158
TRs: 39
Photos: 310
Loc: free range
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either learn from your mistakes, or die.
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Bagging a cougar is one of the most enjoyable sporting feats a young man can accomplish
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#808046 - 06/18/08 10:25 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: builder206]
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veteran
Registered: 06/10/05
Posts: 1222
TRs: 9
Photos: 11
Loc: in ur base
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They break.
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That's all I can think of, but I'm sure there's something else...
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#808070 - 06/18/08 11:03 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: Rad]
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member
Registered: 09/15/06
Posts: 195
TRs: 0
Photos: 11
Loc: Trip planning
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Learn to escape the belay (if you're gonna be on rock). I can't tell you how many people I've spoken with who are interested in or partake in alpine rock climbs that don't know shit about doing this. The Fasulo book is good.
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#808075 - 06/18/08 11:09 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: builder206]
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old hand
Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 727
TRs: 12
Photos: 88
Loc: Da Heezy
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It all sounds good but I am wondering what's the beef with hydration bladders? Is it that you can move water bottles around more conveniently? The hoses freeze then you are totally SOL
_________________________
"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."
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#808095 - 06/18/08 11:52 AM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: NateF]
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spray'prentice
Registered: 07/27/06
Posts: 3024
TRs: 11
Photos: 47
Loc: Seattle, WA
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Move quickly.
* Help the leader pull rope up to the next belay by ensuring there are no snags and it feeds free.
* While he's pulling the rope, you should also be getting ready to go: put yr pack on, shoes on, etc. so that when you're on belay you have nothing left to do but break the anchor and start climbing. Sometimes, depending on the situation, I will start to break the anchor down before I am even on belay, or partially break it down.
* Do what you can to make gear-transfers between pitches go quickly and efficiently. Rack gear well while cleaning, and help organize while handing stuff to the new leader.
* When following, CLIMB FAST! You're on a top rope.
* Corollary: Be sure to tell your second when he must not fall (i.e. marginal belay, etc.)
* Learn how to simul-climb easier portions of the route. Practice simul-climbing so that you can do it efficiently.
* When rappelling, get off rappel as quickly as possible. I pull a long arm-lengths of rope through my device and yell "off rappel" and THEN actually remove my device from the rope. Often, you can start setting up the next rap while your buddy comes down.
Communicate and plan effectively:
* When you can't hear each other, there are obvious ways to devine what's happening. Example: You're feeding rope out. The rope stops moving for a bit. Suddenly the leader is pulling lots of rope through (make sure you feed it through the belay device!). The rope pulls tight. You wait a bit and climb up a little bit -- does the leader pull in the slack? You're probably on belay.
* If using rope tugs to communicate, really TUG -- a tug is not a short little jerk. It's a looooong, deliberate pull. You've got to really yank on it to get the energy to communicate through all that rope and friction.
* Use some of your "alone time" to work through escape scenarios. If something goes wrong on this pitch or the ones following immediately, how will you bail? What will you do if the leader gets hurt?
* When reaching spots on the route from which escape is easy, consider your options. How are you on time? How's the weather? Constantly reevaluate conditions when opportunities present themselves -- don't just blindly press on.
* Learn and practice self-rescue techniques
_________________________
American Hero
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#808163 - 06/18/08 02:57 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: builder206]
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old hand
Registered: 06/22/06
Posts: 712
TRs: 1
Photos: 34
Loc: Canada, eh
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It all sounds good but I am wondering what's the beef with hydration bladders? Is it that you can move water bottles around more conveniently? Hard to see how much water you have left.
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Day time friend and night time lover
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#808538 - 06/19/08 02:28 PM
Re: tips for alpine newbies
[Re: tvashtarkatena]
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Spray Master
Registered: 04/26/02
Posts: 10132
TRs: 0
Photos: 56
Loc: Seattle
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Bring a fresh pair of earplugs for your partner in the likely event that your deviated septum bursts into the Flight of the Valkyries at 1:00 a.m., or in case you just can't shut the fuck up during waking hours. is there an equivalent to keeping you off the keyboard? Just wonderin'...that's all...
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IF YOU'RE OVER 30, YOU'RE JUST IN A SLOW DECOMPOSING STATE...
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