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#580488 - 07/08/06 10:49 PM
Re: The Beehive
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enthusiast
Registered: 10/31/04
Posts: 230
TRs: 5
Photos: 26
Loc: Idaho
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It's been 30 years, but I remember nice grade III climbing that would be lots of fun in the approach shoes I have now, but not so easy in the waffle stompers I had then. I don't remember that much brush, but then I have a very selective memory.
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Don't use force...get a bigger hammer.
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#644492 - 02/05/07 07:48 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: mccallboater]
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member
Registered: 04/05/04
Posts: 176
TRs: 0
Photos: 1
Loc: Some Beckey Route
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Hmm. Grade III? I think there really needs to be a new book on the Selkirks. There is sooo much granite and so little info. Is Randal Green still alive? and what happened to his guiding biz?
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Redpointing 5.0 since 2003
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#644497 - 02/05/07 07:55 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Spungdeeper]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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30 years ago it was probably still burnt out from the big fire of '67.
There's no rock in the Selkirks.
These are not the droids you are looking for.
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"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
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#644776 - 02/06/07 01:39 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: drater]
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enthusiast
Registered: 10/31/04
Posts: 230
TRs: 5
Photos: 26
Loc: Idaho
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And Dan Krumpotich already climbed them all decades ago with wailing high school kids from Rocky Mountain Academy in tow. Too bad he died suddenly this year from a motorcycle accident without anyone acknowledging the pioneering climbs he put up on most of the N walls in the Idaho Selkirks. He just refused to tell anyone about it.
I meant Class III, not Grade III in my earlier post. Whoops. There is a pretty stiff N wall on that peak though. Randal Green is alive and well, but not around Sandpoint any more I've heard.
_________________________
Don't use force...get a bigger hammer.
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#645008 - 02/06/07 07:11 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: mccallboater]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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And Dan Krumpotich already climbed them all decades ago with wailing high school kids from Rocky Mountain Academy in tow. Too bad he died suddenly this year from a motorcycle accident without anyone acknowledging the pioneering climbs he put up on most of the N walls in the Idaho Selkirks. He just refused to tell anyone about it.
Got beta? Or the name of anyone still living round Sandpoint that would know such beta. If your post is true, props, that's f'n sick.....however,... N facing walls in the Selkirks do not exist, these are not the rocks you are looking for.
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#645341 - 02/07/07 12:34 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: drater]
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sprayer
Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 7377
TRs: 3
Photos: 69
Loc: The Oklahoma Dustbowl of WA
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Are there any technical routes on Roman Nose? I love the rock quality of Harrison Peak, and was wondering what it's like on RN.
I know, I know, these aren't the droids you're looking for. Move along... move along.
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"You have to know these things when you're a king, you know." ---Arthur, King of the Britons
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#645357 - 02/07/07 01:03 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: sobo]
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member
Registered: 11/07/02
Posts: 168
TRs: 0
Photos: 34
Loc: Anchorage, AK
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There was a write up on a route on the Roman Nose in an AAJ in the 70s. gIII, 5.7 I think?
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#645383 - 02/07/07 01:47 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Weekend_Climberz]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
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Loc: IMM
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If the thousands of bolders calved off underneath the N face of Roman Nose are any indication of the rock quality up top, there have got to be many mega classics awaiting ascents or ascended sans spray or not known by me.
If I wasn't too lazy to go recover photo's from my old mac, I'd post them up to show how good the rock isn't.
If the north face of roman nose existed, it would be really good rock. The other faces are really good b/c snowboarding and snowkiting, fyi.
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#645698 - 02/08/07 09:02 AM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Jake_Gano]
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sprayer
Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 7377
TRs: 3
Photos: 69
Loc: The Oklahoma Dustbowl of WA
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JG: Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can look it up sometime. WC: Nice screen capture pic. BB: You just don't want us kickin' around your backyard, huh? 
_________________________
"You have to know these things when you're a king, you know." ---Arthur, King of the Britons
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#645702 - 02/08/07 09:14 AM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: sobo]
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member
Registered: 11/07/02
Posts: 168
TRs: 0
Photos: 34
Loc: Anchorage, AK
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I have a copy of the aaj article back home. I can check it tonight and post details.
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#645743 - 02/08/07 10:16 AM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: sobo]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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BB: You just don't want us kickin' around your backyard, huh? Naw, come on up. Lots of room for everybody. Somebodies got to play the uber-secret-localist who doesn't want the masses to know how good their goods are. Besides, climbing in the Selkirks is fairly well documented (at least I thought), the area's I don't want peeps kicking around I just don't post online. Also, ropes are aid and most of you are aid climbers so have at it... 
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#645799 - 02/08/07 12:41 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Spungdeeper]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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No rebar?
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#646067 - 02/09/07 07:55 AM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: drater]
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enthusiast
Registered: 10/31/04
Posts: 230
TRs: 5
Photos: 26
Loc: Idaho
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One guy who can comment with authority on Dan Krumpotich's adventures is Rich Landers at the Spokesman Review in Spokane. He doesn't post on this list though.
Dan was very circumspect about what he accomplished with those Rocky Mountain Academy students back in the 70's. He wanted to keep the first acsent feel for the next guy. But for many of those N face routes in the Selkirks, there hasn't been a next guy that anyone knows of. Well, maybe stealth ascents are the pattern for those mountains.
I suspect the same is true in many other mountain ranges. Some few individuals spend many happy days putting up routes where no one has gone before, but they arn't the least interested in documenting the occasion in the AAC journal.
The only reason I am aware of these trips is that I took a 4 day ski traverse from Pack River to Trout Creek with him. He pointed out several faces he had climbed. I was amazed, and badgered him into telling me more. Only the fact that he is deceased made me mention these at all. The first ascent feel is still there for the next guy, since no one will ever get the beta from Dan now. As it should be.
Still, I hope any new "first ascenders" will honor him during their own adventures. And perhaps follow his "leave no trace" example.
_________________________
Don't use force...get a bigger hammer.
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#646251 - 02/09/07 12:09 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: mccallboater]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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One guy who can comment with authority on Dan Krumpotich's adventures is Rich Landers at the Spokesman Review in Spokane. He doesn't post on this list though.
Dan was very circumspect about what he accomplished with those Rocky Mountain Academy students back in the 70's. He wanted to keep the first acsent feel for the next guy. But for many of those N face routes in the Selkirks, there hasn't been a next guy that anyone knows of. Well, maybe stealth ascents are the pattern for those mountains.
I suspect the same is true in many other mountain ranges. Some few individuals spend many happy days putting up routes where no one has gone before, but they arn't the least interested in documenting the occasion in the AAC journal.
The only reason I am aware of these trips is that I took a 4 day ski traverse from Pack River to Trout Creek with him. He pointed out several faces he had climbed. I was amazed, and badgered him into telling me more. Only the fact that he is deceased made me mention these at all. The first ascent feel is still there for the next guy, since no one will ever get the beta from Dan now. As it should be.
Still, I hope any new "first ascenders" will honor him during their own adventures. And perhaps follow his "leave no trace" example. Awesome. Thanks for posting this. There is supposedly a new guide book out (or coming out) by a guy named Thad for the Selkirks, hopefully he did his research and gives early pioneers their due. I've boldered extensively at the Roman Nose area for a few years now, really amazing rock, Toulomne Meadows style with less knobs, lends itself to either really easy or really hard problems, the intermediates are all crack/seams. Spent a lazy day boldering out of the lake and scoping the walls flat on my back with my binocs, I could not a single trace of climber passage on that entire north face under the lookout. Hope it stays that way.
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#646574 - 02/10/07 10:47 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: drater]
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member
Registered: 04/05/04
Posts: 176
TRs: 0
Photos: 1
Loc: Some Beckey Route
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No way. Rebar A -1 (that is aid negative 1) is totally going in.
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Redpointing 5.0 since 2003
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#646576 - 02/10/07 11:00 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Spungdeeper]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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Well, make it easy enough for me to get up then.
Below average snowpack, might be an early season up there.
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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#646625 - 02/11/07 12:24 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: drater]
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member
Registered: 04/05/04
Posts: 176
TRs: 0
Photos: 1
Loc: Some Beckey Route
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Below average snowpack, might be an early season up there. That would be nice.
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Redpointing 5.0 since 2003
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#646637 - 02/11/07 01:21 PM
Re: The Beehive
[Re: Spungdeeper]
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old hand
Registered: 06/03/04
Posts: 793
TRs: 0
Photos: 0
Loc: IMM
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Your signature is spray!
_________________________
"DOES NOT REFLECT MY PERSONAL BELIEFS BEYOND THE BELIEF THAT A SENSE OF HUMOR IS INVALUABLE"
-arch
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Thanks, Jake.
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