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#657811 - 03/17/07 01:39 PM [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007
Colin Offline
addicted to cc.com


Registered: 12/06/00
Posts: 473
Loc: Seattle
Trip: Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk

Date: 3/12/2007

Trip Report:
On March 10th, Jed Brown (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12th we climbed to the summit of Mt. Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk), and descended via the same route, in just under 15 hours roundtrip. We believe this might have been the first ascent of Huntington during the winter season. Although many teams descend from the top of the ice ramp, we found it to only be half-way to the summit, in terms of time and effort. Conditions and weather were excellent, although the temperatures were quite cold; we both frostnipped a few digits. After a few days contemplating other objectives, we gave in to the cold nights and flew out of the range on March 16th.

A few lessons learned:
-bring two pee bottles instead of one
-bring mittens that you can actually do technical climbing in
-bring a face mask that covers your nose
-bring a sleeping bag rated to -30F instead of -10F
-bring a larger than 2-person tent to basecamp
-bring a thermarest to basecamp
-muffins are very difficult to bite at -20F
-bring basecamp down booties
-don't go to Alaska before April! \:\)

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#657814 - 03/17/07 01:57 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Colin]
Kraken Offline
addicted to cc.com


Registered: 02/20/05
Posts: 600
Loc: AK
COLIN! YES! You did get the first winter ascent. Nicely done man! That has been attempted by so many people in the winter, way to keep racking up these coveted summits!
_________________________
"I don't know about you man, but I'm going to get my kicks before this shithouse goes up in flames"

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#657845 - 03/17/07 07:43 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Kraken]
DanielHarro Offline
enthusiast


Registered: 03/02/05
Posts: 216
Loc: AK Grown
good work Jed and Colin! sounds like you need to learn the penguin pump to keep those digits warm!
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#657846 - 03/17/07 07:52 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: DanielHarro]
Joe_Poulton Offline
member


Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 118
Loc: Portland, OR/ Denver, CO USA
Awesome!!
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#657865 - 03/17/07 11:46 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Joe_Poulton]
avitripp Offline
old hand


Registered: 02/17/05
Posts: 757
Loc: Vancouver, B.C.

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#657871 - 03/18/07 12:50 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: avitripp]
Blake Offline
kiwi-wanker
spray'prentice


Registered: 10/15/03
Posts: 2512
Loc: Bellingham
High Five!


That sucks about some of the cold-weather problems, but on the bright side, maybe it's better to get those things figured out now and be more ready for similar conditions in Pakistan this summer.

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#657878 - 03/18/07 07:19 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Blake]
ZimZam Offline
veteran


Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1214
Loc: a state of toxic waste
He just keeps going, and going, and ...
_________________________
Vertical Scout

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#657883 - 03/18/07 08:26 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: ZimZam]
NYC007 Offline
old hand


Registered: 02/05/03
Posts: 792
Loc: spokanistan
sweet, that route looks like a fun one!
_________________________
Didnt you see my movie!?

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#657893 - 03/18/07 09:44 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: NYC007]
Chriznitch Online   content
addicted to cc.com


Registered: 07/07/04
Posts: 471
Loc: Susanville, CA
sick dudes
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#657895 - 03/18/07 09:59 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Colin]
pup_on_the_mountain Offline
enthusiast


Registered: 09/15/04
Posts: 374
Loc: Land of Cows
Awesome job!!

Good luck with those frsotnipped digits .

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#657921 - 03/18/07 12:44 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: pup_on_the_mountain]
Gary_Yngve Offline
spray'prentice


Registered: 03/04/02
Posts: 3205
Loc: UW
Sweet!

I recall when you were in Pakistan a few years ago, you had gotten frostnip earlier in the season on Andromeda Strain. Did the frostnip bother you on Nanga Parbat? Do you think the frostnip will affect your summer plans?

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#657957 - 03/18/07 05:39 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Gary_Yngve]
ryland_moore Offline
Pooh-Bah


Registered: 02/09/01
Posts: 1640
Loc: Portland, Oregon
Sweet climb guys! Way to go after it! Any pics?
_________________________
Someday the Mountain Might get 'em but the law never will - Theme Song From Dukes of Hazard

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#658185 - 03/19/07 11:10 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: ryland_moore]
Alpinfox Offline
spray'prentice


Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 4795

Colin, you da man.

Looking forward to pics. Winter in the AK range has gotta make for some sweeeet pics.
_________________________
If there is one thing I don't trust, its monkeys. They are even worse than robots. -TtB

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#658202 - 03/19/07 11:34 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Alpinfox]
Jed Offline
stranger


Registered: 07/19/06
Posts: 5
http://59a2.org/huntington/200703/
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#658232 - 03/19/07 12:06 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Jed]
johnkelley Offline
journeyman


Registered: 02/15/05
Posts: 60
Loc: Anchorage Alaska
Thanks for the stoke!
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#658233 - 03/19/07 12:08 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Jed]
Alpinfox Offline
spray'prentice


Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 4795

Awesome!

Thanks Jed.
_________________________
If there is one thing I don't trust, its monkeys. They are even worse than robots. -TtB

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#658236 - 03/19/07 12:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Jed]
cluck Offline
addicted to cc.com


Registered: 01/16/03
Posts: 498
Loc: Portland, OR
Damn - NICE pics dude. Slick move making your partner tote the camera so you get all the hero shots!
_________________________
If you can't learn to do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

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#658243 - 03/19/07 12:19 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Jed]
Mr_Phil Offline
old hand


Registered: 06/14/06
Posts: 982
Loc: In the heat of the moment
Another Brown and Haley Mountain of Goodness







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#658267 - 03/19/07 12:36 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Mr_Phil]
wfinley Offline
old hand


Registered: 04/27/04
Posts: 722
Loc: anchortown
Hell yeah!!!! For those of you not up here... last week was insanely cold all over the state! At 1500' on the Kenai it dipped to -25; I cannot imagine what the AK Range was like!
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#658281 - 03/19/07 12:57 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: wfinley]
Winter Offline
Pooh-Bah


Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2135
Loc: freshiez!
brrrrrrr! nice work fellas.
_________________________
chriswinter.blogspot.com

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#658362 - 03/19/07 02:17 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Winter]
layton Offline
sprayer


Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6278
Loc: Salt Lake City
fawk yeah!
_________________________
PNW ExPatriot
http://www.proactivehealthchiropractic.com

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#658364 - 03/19/07 02:20 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Winter]
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice


Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3340
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Schweetness

Leave some for the rest of us 'eh
_________________________
Weekday Sprayer

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#658459 - 03/19/07 03:58 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
brian_m Offline
member


Registered: 04/17/06
Posts: 149
Loc: North Bend, WA
Great pics! Thanks for the stoke and motivation to finish the last month of training hard before my trip North.
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