rob Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 My crack technique needs work! I'm looking for some good moderate (5.6 - 5.8) jamming in Leavenworth. Ideas? TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Classic Crack,5.8+, Gibson's Crack. 5.5, Dogleg Crack, 5.8. The Left Crack, 5.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 The route left of classic crack is also a good one that requires jamming. A little easier than classic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Also, there's Givler's Crack, 5.8. The hardest part is getting off the ground. The best part of the crack starts on the second pitch and it goes at around 5.6. You can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520096/page/0/fpart/3 5.5 Midway- multi Saber- multi Notch Route on Tumwater Tower- hands 5.6 R&D- multi Tree Route- multi The Fault- chimney, hands, fists, face Ground Hog Day- fingers, hands 5.7(+) Givler's Crack- mostly hands, fist Bob's 4th Crack- hands Roots Rock Reggae- hands P2 Rgular Route (Careno)- hands 5.8(+) Classic Crack- hands Dogleg Crack- tight hands, hands S Face Jello Tower- tight hands, hands, face Canary- hands Animal Farm- hands, fists, face Cloud Nine- hands, fists Catapult- hands, stemming Arselips and Elbows- chimney Spaghetti Sauce- hands The Arch- undercling, smearing P3 Regular Route (Careno)- stemming, hands 5.9(+) Celestial Groove- fingers, hands Ski Tracks Crack- hands Damnation Crack- lieback, fists Kitty Corner- lieback, stem, fingers, hands Yellowbird- fingers, hands, face The Bone- hands, heel hook, mantle Lightning Crack- hands Poison Ivy Crack- hands Deception Crack- thin hands, slick face Twin Cracks- thin hands Angel Crack- fingers, slick-as-snot feet Forking Crack- hands, face 5.10- Crack of Doom- hands, thin hands, face Brass Balls- fingers, off fingers, hands Cocaine Crack- fingers, hands Arms Control- fingers, hands Exotic Dancer- stemming, hands Meat Grinder- hands, fists Bo Derek- hands, face A Swingn' Affair- hands P3 Bale/Kramar- fingers, hands, fists Pearly Gates- fingers, chimney, hands 5.10+ MF Overhang- fingers, face The Nose- fingers, face Carnival Crack- OW Z-Crack- fingers, hands Deb's Crack- hands, fists Original Route on Warrior Wall- stemming, hands, face Shot Down in Flames- lieback, hands Leap of Faith- fingers, thin hands, face 5.11- Pumpline- fingers, thin hands MF Direct- fingers Divine Line- fingers Solar Power- fingers Air Roof- fingers, hands 5.11+ ROTC- thin hands, hands Lazy Boy- hands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 sweet, thx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead. Yeah that's it. I didn't really think of how difficult it'd be to lead vs. Classic Crack... I TRed them both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead. Yeah that's it. I didn't really think of how difficult it'd be to lead vs. Classic Crack... I TRed them both I saw a young fellow do his first trad lead on Twin Cracks. That wouldn't be my first choice, but he was young and very strong and did fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Seems like a poor choice for first lead. The crux has trick pro IIRC. Classic is the harder climb, but definitely the safer lead. Bomber gear the whole way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Twin Crack is a tricky lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 (edited) Twin Crack is a tricky lead. Twin Cracks is a tricky lead too. (Unless you have lots of big gear) Edited March 29, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Pearly Gates has a lot of crack routes in the moderate range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterMo Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 (edited) It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead. Left Forking 5.8 Right Forking 5.9 The big flake wiggles, eh? Classic.........uh.............5.7 Deception 5.9 but it's really more of a face problem Edited March 29, 2007 by MisterMo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Twin Crack is a tricky lead. Twin Cracks is a tricky lead too. (Unless you have lots of big gear) Edited by Peter_Puget (Today at 09:52 AM) Eh?? What kind of moderating tomfoolery is this?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Forget trad leading. If you want some jamming schooling get on Royal Flush at SwiftWater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 UW Rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiva Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 just boulder the cube crack at clamshell once you get good the start is the crux but then it is plugger hands but it pretty highball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 Pearly Gates has a lot of crack routes in the moderate range. Pearly Gates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 just boulder the cube crack at clamshell once you get good the start is the crux but then it is plugger hands but it pretty highball Top rope-able if you stem off the tree And you must have little freakin hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Skip Leavenworth and go to Tieton :tup: Climb Mushmaker (5.7 hands) until you can do it on your sleep and without the face. Repeat on First Blood(5.8 rattly fists/offwidth), Repeat on Orange Sunshine (10b burly fingers), Repeat on Paul Maul (10c fingers). Or go try the top half of Toxic Shock at Index. Sweet hands!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Tieton is a really good place for cracks. Paul's Jam is a really good .8 (hands). There was really good .9 to the left, but I don't remember the name. There is also MX, a .10a (fingers) that is harder than Orange Sunshine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 I've never climbed there, sounds like I need to check it out. Maybe warmup on Pauls and then give the 9 a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 FYI - All of the cracks are steep at Tieton. It makes for good climbing, but the ratings seem a little stiff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 (edited) Thx, maybe I'll eye that 9 more suspiciously now. stiffer than index? Edited September 21, 2007 by robmcdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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