[TR] Goat Wall, Mazama - Prime Rib of Goat, Grade III, 5.9, 11 Pitches 7/9/2007

[fenderfour]

Trip: Goat Wall, Mazama - Prime Rib of Goat, Grade III, 5.9, 11 Pitches

 

Date: 7/9/2007

 

Trip Report:

I finally found some time to get on this thing. I've read the TR's and seen the topo. It looked like fun.

 

I will spare you the boring details.

 

1. Bring a helmet. There is a lot of loose rock up there.

2. If you can lead 5.8 at exit 38, you can climb this route. All cruxes were well bolted.

3. Rappelling 11 pitches sucks.

4. Bring your approach shoes up with you to make it more comfortable.

5. Leave the quickdraws at home. Bring about 10 singles and 4 doubles instead.

 

I appreciate the immense amount of work that went into this route, but I didn't think it was very good. The 5.7 traverse and the 5.8 pitch just before that were pretty cool. The final 5.9 pitch had good exposure, but shitty, dirty rock.

 

I got the impression that the route was forced up the wall. It did not take an aesthetic or even logical line. The route follows the least shitty rock up the wall requiring belay moves and a significant amount of second class hiking.

 

On the other hand, you won't find another 11 pitch 5.8 route to climb in Washington, let alone an 11 pitch sport route. This would make a decent long day for a new sport climber. If you are looking for a classic route, this is not it. If you are looking for a long casual climb in the 5.6 range with a few harder bits, this is your ticket.

 

Gear Notes:

Single and double slings, helmet, approach shoes, water

 

Approach Notes:

Up the mining road, up the scree, on the route

[catbirdseat]

That sums it up pretty nicely. Save this one, like we did, for a day when it is rainy and blowy at Washington Pass.