skykilo Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Climb: Chair Peak-North Face Date of Climb: 1/25/2006 Trip Report: "The Electric Chair" Eric and I climbed and skied the North Face of Chair Peak yesterday. I really wanted to do it Tuesday but nobody could go. Ross is on some 'I gotta get ready for a two-week trip to rock climb in the desert sun' bullshit. At least Eric could muster Wednesday. The day-late penalty was ubiquitous crust. We simulclimbed about 5 100' pitches. I stopped at a tree to rerack below a cruxy looking spot near the top. "Hey Eric, want to do a lead so you can say you pulled your weight?" "Sure you shit-talker." Eric styled his pitch, with an undercling to boot, before I followed and we simuled another half pitch to the top. Forget the crust, there's powder right underneath it! Eric had brought the oh-so-appropriate Karhu Jaks for the descent. He wasn't throwing the towel and I sure as hell wasn't going to tell him what he could and couldn't do. I'll let Eric speak for himself, but I skied with two 15m raps. (The rappel spots are the magenta dots on the route photo.) My sidestepping quotient was a little high, but I did make turns on every section I didn't rap. The turns off the top above where we rappeled the highest 70-degree ice bulge were pretty damn exhilirating. "Look ma, I'm rapping switch!" The weather had turned into a snowy whiteout by the time we got off the face. I made it to my intramural game at the IMA on time and balled hard on mofos. Yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 It seems like it has been a long time since a Chair Peak NF trip report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I hear that Eric character is a homo, can't ski for shit, and sucks at basketball. I wish I had three hands, so I could give your climb three thumbs down!!! HAHA. Nice work. That's some pretty bitchin new wave ski mountaineering celebration shit, bitches!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
To_The_Top Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Wild! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjölner Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Hell yea! Way to get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 the twinned tail of the jaks must have been sweet for that switch rap. Is that tanner hall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 You crack me up, Sky. I wish I could've joined you, but armCHAIR ski mountaineering will have to do for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 All I know is that it is 70 degrees and sunny in J-Tree!!! nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 We simulclimbed about 5 100m pitches. I call BS!!! 5 * 100m = 500m = 1640ft. So... you guys roped up at Source Lake or something?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 We simulclimbed about 5 100m pitches i remember 4x 60-70m pitches when I did it. did the route get substantially longer? or is my memory fading already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirwoofalot Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 BS or not, it still was a job well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 I meant 100', OOPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 What're you guys trying to say? The TR totally says 100'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Clearly you are just trying to make your trip sound more impressive than it was... 'cause face it - it just WASN'T IMPRESSIVE ENOUGH! Folks on tay might fall for lies about the height of the north face, but here on cc.com, no way boy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Folks on TAY only have the specs for the muir/palmer snowfields memorized. The winter stuff throws them off a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I've heard that route isn't in condition this year, what the hell you trying to say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 sweet pix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Nice job! Geez, I was hoping to climb the NF and yet now someone has actually skied it. Wicked! Anyway, I guess the lines up there this weekend are going to be hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Here's a picture of Eric 'skiing' just below the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Nice job Sky. I'm glad you didn't have any route-finding problems! (Torrrrrmmmmmennnnnnt-FFFFForrrrrrrbbbbbiddddddennnnnnn...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apound Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Awesome! Did you have to rap the bottom of the route as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanl Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 i couldn't not reply- nice job, and cool pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 "you crazy." How much more snow before you go back and cruise it Warren Miller style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 Awesome! Did you have to rap the bottom of the route as well? No raps at the bottom. I did a little boof onto some disappointingly-unforgiving crust (harder than I had expected) at the lowest bulge. One last spinal readjustment over the bergschrund and our rewards were never-ending crust on moderate terrain to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 Here's a picture of Eric above the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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