Beacon Rawk - Da Fly\'n Dutchman 8/27/2008
Trip: Beacon Rawk - Da Fly'n Dutchman
Date: 8/27/2008
Trip Report:the third times the charm - went up the 1st pitch for the first time last fall w/ oleg, who led the first pitch off the couch and fell repeatedly at the crux - i didn't have the gear or the stones for the upper pitch then and bailed after french-fuck'n'up the first 10 feet of it
went back later in the fall and led the variant first pitch (psychic wounds?), but despite having more gear, i still didn't have etriers, which it became clear i was gonna need
today, i returned to the scene of the crime - mike led the first pitch, but as it was rather damp and slimey, he aided most of it - i shot up it and cleaned it, then took a bit short of 2 hours to aid the money-pitch, which is stupid thin for a stupid long time - how the hell doesn't it have more pins bashed in? at any rate, bailed over into bears in heat for a 10 foot section when i got tired of trusting my precious ballz to aid-nut after aid-nut - brought a leper but couldn't get a placement - the last half is tremendous fun and not nearly as sketch - ended up directly aiding about 90% of the pitch i reckon - sigh - maybe i'll reincarnate as a worthy free-climber?
Gear Notes:aid nutz
double set of nuts, small through large
3 blue to red aliens
00 metolious
1 .75
2 #1,#2
1 #3 (if you stray over to bearz-n-heat
etriers (if you suck)
Approach Notes:look out for the rangers, who have decided to Bring The Heat down to the base of the wall for god-know's-how-long now
