Crossover Peak - East Summit - Southeast Ridge 6/15/2008

Posted By: marc_leclerc in British Columbia/Canada

Trip: Crossover Peak - East Summit - Southeast Ridge

Date: 6/15/2008

Trip Report:
After bailing from Hozameen because of lots of snow on the trail and a super late start nine other BCMC members and myself decided to camp in Chilliwack, picking up my rock gear on the way, and climb crossover on Sunday. We were going to camp at thr riverside campground at the start of Nesakwatch road but Jos offered to let us camp behind his house when we called to invite him along (he ended up going to vancouver intead though) After a late night chatting and hanging out we all got up at 5:00 and headed out. We drove up Nesakwatch creek to about 10 min from the Slesse Memorial Trailhead and started off. The trail was pretty nice, without too much brush on the old road, and we got the group up to the plaque in about an hour. From the memorial plaque we headed down accross the creek and started bushwacking up the old growth towards Crossover's East Peak. As we climbed the snow got less patchy and much nicer until we finally broke out of the treeas onto the neverending snowlope below crossover. We kicked steps up and over several bumps and our goal slowly got closer and closer until, after a bit of a slog, we were all at the base of the route! yay! We decided to split into two rope teams and we would all simul-climb the entire route. I grabbed the small rack and started leading up the ridge. The climbing was a lot like North Nesakwatch Spire but more fun and continous.. less walking and boring stuff. The ridge got steeper as we continued and the climbing got even more fun. I could have climbed easy ramps right of the crest but I took a direct and exposed route up the crest, placing pro every 50-75 ft.. sometimes I didnt place anything for a really long time but the climbing was easy and fun.
The group moved really quickly up the ridge and I soon found myself finding a way around the big summit block. I walked around and pulled my self on top of the block and the team all took turns standing on the summit. The register showed that the peak was not oft' ascended and only a few parties had been up there. After descending down the west ridge and rapping back onto the snow the party split up. Me and four other climbers started traversing the steep snowslopes over to the west peak of Crossover. One of the four climbers turned back as the climbing looked fairly steep and we weren't planning on roping up. We climbed a steep gulley up towards the ridge but the rock wasnt great, it was a bit late and we didnt feel like downclimbing much so we sdescended back to the snow and glissaded/ran all the way down to the forest. A quick downhill bushwack brought us back to the road/trail and we eventually were back at the cars at the base. The entire trip took about 10 hours with the group and the climb was a great start to the alpine rock season. Plus I got to get a good look at one of my next goals.... Slesse's famous North East Butress. Over all the route was an enjoyable and easy route, a lot of fun, and is located in an amazing area. All the gear you need is a few cams to hand size, a few runners and maybe 5 mid-large stoppers ... the climbing is quite easy and any challenges can be bypassed on the right. I would solo it for sure...


Slogging up snowslopes to our goal


Climbing up with Crossover in sight


Our route is right in the middle of the mountain, facing the camera


Looking down to Nesakwatch Creek


Nearly at the base of the route


Getting onto the ridge


Me getting ready to lead up the ridge


Climbing the ridge, I can be seen up the ridge on the crest




Typical climbing, somewhat steep, low-5th class


Me on the summit in the yellow helmet, Lief beside me also on the peak


Me on top of Crossover East Peak


Me and Dan on the summit


West Peak of Crossover, we climbed the obvious snow gully and the rock for a while before turning around.


Traversing snow


Me and Slesse


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