Enchantments - Prusik Peak - West Ridge 8/25/2008
Trip: Enchantments - Prusik Peak - West Ridge
Date: 8/25/2008
Trip Report:It's high time I start contributing to this resource, seeing as I've been an anonymous browser for a couple years and have been appearing in some of Kevino's TR's. So here goes my first TR:
After talks of climbing Eldorado/Dorado Needle with Tvash fizzled out, Kevino and I hatched our own plan. We would hike in and set up camp at Colchuck Lake on Monday, then go up and climb the West Ridge of Prusik. On Tuesday, we would climb Serpentine Arete on Dragontail, then hike out. So we pulled up to the Leavenworth ranger station just before 8 and snagged the last Colchuck permit. While paying our fee, the "polite" lady behind the counter informed us that "they" had decided to raise the fee from $3 to $5/day for next year. This of course raised the questions of "who the hell are they?" and "why are we even bothering with this?"
We made good time up to the lake, over Aasgard, and up to Prusik Pass and the balanced rock that marks the start of the route. It was still partly cloudy with some sunbreaks and a cold wind, but as we climbed, the weather deteriorated. Kevin led the first and third pitches, and I took the second and fourth (final). Which means my first trad lead ever was the 5.7 slab pitch. After about the first pitch we began seeing snow flurries, and the wind strengthened to sustained 15-25 mph, with a temperature right around freezing. Darn good thing we brought full battle gear, and we ended up wearing everything for most of the climb. Weather aside, the route was fantastic, and we both agreed that it is well deserving of it's classic status. Hoots of joy were as abundant as episodes of screaming barfies.
We topped out some time around 6:30 PM and began our descent down the North Face. The raps begin from the summit, and stations are numerous and all bomber, giving plenty of options. We made something like 5 full single rope raps, which got us down to easy ledges to traverse back to the start of the route.
Then the fun began. Knowing we didn't stand a chance making it back to camp before dark, we took our time at the balanced rock and fueled up. As we made our way towards the upper Enchantments, the storm reached its peak. The snow and sleet intensified, the wind strengthed and was gusting around 40 mph, and the temp dropped to 29. Sideways blowing snow stung our eyes, and a trace of snow was accumulating on the ground. Linking up rock cairns by headlamp proved to be the crux of the trip, and we reached our tent at 11:15 PM. Given the weather and how our day had gone, we decided to not do Dragontail the next day, figuring it would still be cloudy and wet.
Kevin starting up pitch 1
The author at the belay above the slab pitch
The author (left) and Kevin at a belay
Kevin following up the final chimney
the "WTF?" face
Getting blasted in the upper Enchantments
"Yeah, no way it will be cloud free tomorrow." Wrong!
Gear Notes:single 60m rope, nuts, cams from small aliens to BD #3, doubles in the mid size range
clothing to withstand rogue August storms
Approach Notes:Can be approached via Colchuck Lake trail or Snow Creek trail
