Mount Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge (attempt) 6/12/2008
Trip: Mount Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge (attempt)
Date: 6/12/2008
Trip Report:On June 12 – 14, John (NY), Henry (Chicago) and I (Albany, NY) set out to climb Ptarmigan Ridge and descend the D.C. route. We knew beforehand that snow levels on the lower mountain would present a huge problem. But when the forecast finally called for good weather we decided to take our chances. After spotting a car at Paradise and driving the 100+ miles to Mowich Lake Rd., we headed out from just below Paul Peak trailhead.
Travel on snowshoes (shit! – extra 12 pounds of total gear) was reasonable to Mowich Lake, which we found buried under 10 feet of snow. But after passing the lake, travel was stalled by deep, wet snow, especially the traverse below Hessong Rock on the way to Spray Park. We crawled along under our heavy packs at about one-half mile per hour. We all took tumbles into deep tree wells along this section of the approach. We camped just below Spray Park at 5200 feet.
The next morning better snow conditions in the alpine zone made for reasonable progress but we stalled breaking trail up the Russell Glacier and later on lower Ptarmigan Ridge. After 11 hours of effort on approach day-2, we bivyed on the ridge at 10,200 ft.
The route looked to be in perfect condition. But we were not. Too spent to commit to a one-day push up and over to Camp Muir, we reluctantly descended the next day.
After returning to Paradise to pick up the spot car, John and I did a consolation climb of the D.C. route to 13K before being stopped by high winds. On Ptarmigan Ridge we saw only our own footprints and a bear. It is a beautiful route. I plan to return (without the snowshoes).
