South Sister Solo Bivy - Prouty Headwall 6/19/2008
Trip: South Sister Solo Bivy - Prouty Headwall
Date: 6/19/2008
Trip Report:Knowing the Cascades Lakes Highway was ripe to open, I wanted to get a jump on the high country before the trailheads were accessible. I left my sled near Ball Butte at the wilderness boundary, saving several miles of boring slog. I had two days to wonder so I went around the north side of Broken Top looking for a route on South Sister’s East side that I hadn’t climbed before. Prouty Headwall looked inviting so that’s where I headed. Approaching the base of the climb, I kept an eye below the headwall for falling rocks, there were none. But to the left, by the Old Crater route, there was continual rock fall, and it took awhile to realize the echoes carried across to the prouty headwall.
The bergschrund followed the rock wall full length, but could easily be stepped over. Standing at the schrund, two softball size ice chunks whizzed past my helmet, so I moved right along up the short Couloir. At the top, a short steep ridge line lead to a rock wall of loose rubble. The crux was getting above the rubble to gain the upper section of snow leading up to the summit. Most of the rock in those few moves to the upper snowfield was loose and unnerving to weight. Didn’t help having a 45-pound pack with bivy gear and camera gear. Packing in I thought, why did I bring so many clothes and gear. That night I thought, why didn’t I bring more clothes and gear, so I guess it was about right. Glad to get over the rock wall and on to the summit.
Windy and cold, so I cut a flat spot inside the crater wall to lay my bag. I had forgot my gaiters and my feet were wet and chilled. My chemical hand warmers, I soon found were old and didn’t work. Carried them for years as back up and now they were dead. I poured boiling water in my nalgine bottle and put it in my crotch to warm the arteries traveling to my toes, now that worked. A hot meal and I was ready to stand out in the wind for a few hours photographing the sunset to the north. Stayed up long enough to howl at the moon, it appeared beyond Broken Top about ten. Up at 5 to photograph the sunrise, decent clouds and color.
I took the South Slog Route off the mountain and dropped across the Lewis to Green Lakes. I wanted to return by way of the south side of Broken Top. Crossing the Southeast and the South Ridges, I dam near climbed the mountain, and that dumped me down just below the Broken Top Crater. The North side is a much better route if time and distance are of concern. And you don’t loose as much elevation. No need for snowshoes, most of the snow is firm. Hood may be crowded these days but not the Three Sisters, I didn’t see a soul.
Route in showing climb to South Sister Summit.
Detail of the Prouty Headwall.
Approaching the Headwall.
View of the Couloir.
Above the Couloir on the short ridge line.
Crux move was getting over the loose rock wall.
Above the headwall, now an easy climb to the summit.
Bivy inside the crater rim blocked the wind.
Sunset from the summit looking North.
Broken Top and Bend just before the moon came up.
Early morning sunrise from the summit.
Morning sunrise to the North showing Middle and North Sister, Three Finger Jack, Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and Helens.
Gear Notes:Crampons, ice axe, helmet.
Approach Notes:Cross Country, seldom traveled area.
