Tillie\'s Towers - Austera Ridge - W Tillie\'s Tower N Arete 8/17/2008
Trip: Tillie's Towers - Austera Ridge - W Tillie's Tower N Arete
Date: 8/17/2008
Trip Report:Inspired by J. Scurlock's photo, Rolf Larson and I climbed an approx. 1100' route (6.5 rope-stretch cysmastfu pitches) on the half-sunlit arete of the right hand tower, just left of center in pic below:
credit: J. Scurlock.
Tillie's Towers are
basically the most prominent NW terminus of Austera Ridge or Austera Towers (point 8260' on USGS map), of which Beckey comments: "The name is for austere, barren rock towers consisting of many massive rock blocks and spires. The N flank of the western towers is above an unnamed glacier where there is the steepest wall of the ridge...These are two impressive towers..."
We found solid, mostly clean and featured rock--Eldorado Orthogneiss--offering both nice cracks and gear-protected face climbing. The route featured gobs of 5.8 and .7 climbing, with a few moves of .9 sprinkled along the way. Joking about a route name, I liked "Nutmeg Tilly" (you better lay your nutmeg down), but Rolf rightly observed re our route: "an unearthed obscurity destined to return to obscurity." "Unearthed Obscurity" is better because the adjacent Piltdown Tower (see pic below) refers to Piltdown Man, an archaelogical hoax comprised of part man, part monkey--like our team. This is an out-of-the way rugged corner of the NCNP; I dug the cool position and alpine ambiance.
Pardon the pictorial play-by-play, I got a few decent pics--wildfire haze has its pros and cons...but the rock and area are photogenic.
After hot long hike in from Colonial Cr Campground on Aug 16,
sunset light on Primus peak and Borealis Gl from our camp:
On up/down/up approach morning Aug. 17, it started raining, but we decided to go to the base of the route and see what the weather decided.
Looking back at Tricouni at sunrise, Ragged Ridge L background:
Showers stopped, we ascended over blue glacial ice to base, and were stoked to get on it.
Pitch 1, crack and face on neat-O rock:
We generally stayed either on or w/in spitting distance of the Arete. However, on pitch 2, I did a curve right to access a chimney system to bypass an overhanging pillar.
Belay from cleft, top p. 2, hard to see Shuksan in background:
Rolf heading up scrappy .9 section of p. 3, from deluxe alcove belay:
I drew these nice cracks on
pitch 4:
Pitches 1-4 are pretty steep; from 5 on the arete backs off a bit. Here's a shot looking down 6 at the glacier:
From the summit, views of the
McAllister Gl icefall and
Austera Ridge (towers):
Descent beta: rap S face c. 100', then traverse E and downclimb steep 4th to gully between the Towers. Descend gully only a little, looking to ascend/traverse E to Austera ridge crest. Find your way down and onto to N Klawatti Gl (deep moat). On rap, half man half monkey
Piltdown Tower:
Tag E Tillie for good measure (dry Buckner background):
We had time, and a poor next-day forecast seemed to prohibit climbing the N side of Primus, so we went over Primus en route to camp. Along the way, snuck a pic of contemplative curmudgeon with more Eldo Orthogneiss, rare opp to avoid the finger:
From summit Primus, view of our camp at outlet of Borealis Gl:
Lightning and thunderstorm that night, with next morning dawning temporarily clear:
Such a purty place, with a dapper Pinocchio to boot:
(clem done found him a tattered hat)
Parting shot of Tricouni and Primus, happy to hike in the rain:
Having only cragged once this year in March (long ski season, busy summer), this was an ideal alpine shot in the arm with--dare I say it--an easy-going and downright fun-to-hate partner. The route's certainly not destined for any guidebook, but if you like untrammeled lines, a fine place.
In light of all that, prob. moot title:
West Tillie's Tower - N Arete ("Unearthed Obscurity") III 5.9
Gear Notes:med. alpine rack, brought pins did not use them
axe and crampons
4 12 oz. Rainier
1 flask bourbon (Porter: can you guess?)
Approach Notes:icy hot
become what you hate
destroy what you love
