Tran Spire 50 years after the first ascent - 5.3 Route 7/18/2008
Trip: Tran Spire 50 years after the first ascent - 5.3 Route
Date: 7/18/2008
Trip Report:Terry and I went today to go climb Tran Spire. This is a seldom climbed route just north of Jefferson Peak. Our research only came up with 1 other party (first ascent party) doing this climb in 1958, so we had the 50th anniversary climb of this obscure peak.
We forded the Hamma Hamma River just across from Black Wall. I took an unexpected dip in the river as the river current was strong. This climb smelled of epic from the beginning.
We took the left side drainage up towards Jefferson Peak, which is not listed anywhere in the guidebook as an approach route. We have no clue if anyone has ever approached from this direction, nor whether it would "go" or not. The bushwacking was minimal from the standards of the area (some healthy devils club/slide alder/etc), with the real 'schwacking starting out at around 3000 feet. Many green belays were necessary along with kicking steps in the thick moss and pine needle carpet to skirt the cliffs. There were spots that were quite hairy, but better than the alternative route (Pershing route 5).
We reached the base of Tran Spire at about 7-8 hours after leaving the car. We quickly learned that this peak is QUITE chossy, with most of the rock being a strange conglomerate that resembled rocks and pebbles cemented together with dense sand. The first lead took us up about 60 feet, through generally crappy rock and trees. The second lead was about 150 feet, with more choss and some class 5 moves on grass and moss. We topped out and found a summit register and a toy towtruck. This peak was climbed in 1958, 1977, and 1983 according to the register. Unfortunately, we couldn't add our names as the paper was soaking wet. Two rappels brought us back to the base.
Every hold on this climb should be considered suspect. While belaying, no matter where I stood, I was dodging nasty rockfall the whole time, with one rock barely whizzing by my face. All protection should also be considered suspect, with our only truly bomber placements being a piton and one large hex. The second pitch was basically unprotectable after 50 feet. Not a big deal for a 5.3 climb right? Well, we both agreed that it was much closer to 5.6-5.7 than 5.3.....definitely hardman rated.
We decided to take the normal route down which in hindsight was a terrible idea. I have never seen so much devils club in one place, with some of it growing up to 9 feet tall. The entire descent was tarzan style using 'green rope'. The last 3 hours were full-on bushwacking by headlamp. I'm currently covered in small cuts from the devils club and blackberry bushes as well as plenty of bug bites. I think I swallowed/inhaled at least a couple dozen mosquitoes.
A broken camera, a half broken body, and 16 hours later, we were back at the car. I'll try to retrieve my pictures....maybe Terry can post his soon.
Gear Notes:We brought a full rock rack (including pitons) and 2 twin ropes. We ended up placing a couple of good hexes, 3 cams (BD C4 camalot #1 and 2 were the best sizes), and made 2 good piton placements. The Rappel from the tree at top requires a two rope rappel. There is no easy way to rappel without 2 ropes. Heavy leather gloves should be considered MANDATORY for the devils club descent.
Approach Notes:We forded the Hamma Hamma River right across from black wall and went up the gulley directly in front of us. This is NOT listed in the guidebook as an approach route. We descended the typical guidebook route which was MUCH worse bushwacking through the worst devils club I have ever seen.
