Banks Lake - 6/14/2008
Trip: Banks Lake -
Date: 6/14/2008
Trip Report:Rob had asked the question "Where to climb in Leavenworth during Rockfest" in a different thread, and cc.com poster Miladugga and I found the clear answer to be "Banks Lake." With two warm days, Saturday in the upper 70's, Sunday in the low 80's, and a weekend without seeing a single other climber, it was just a stellar outing. I gotta say, "thanks Rockfest!"
Leaving Olympia early Saturday morning, we set out to piece together a route up Highway Rock around 11am. The lake was a good foot and a half higher than the last time I'd been here, so the traverse into the highly recommended Aqualine on the west side waterline seemed to present a likely dousing. Not wanting to risk wet shoes for the day, we instead did Supprehension as a first pitch. From the upper anchor I lowered my partner down to the start of Aqualine so he could enjoy the pleasant arete. Schools of huge black sharks cruised the surface below him, though it's just possible that they were carp.
We did Creamsicle Buttress for a second pitch, and it definitely doesn't merit the three stars LaBelle's guide gives it. Dirty third class, indifferently cleaned start, irritating open cold shut mid pitch anchor, bare studs from an earlier mid pitch anchor, gritty friction dishes that go "skritch skritch" all contribute to a somewhat ho-hum pitch, though it's nothing that a few hours with a brush, some tasteful pull-and-patch work, and 50 more ascents couldn't make better.
We spent a little time at the nice grassy ledge at the top plotting out our next move. Some nice scrambling led up a hundred feet or so to the next tier, and we did Calanques for a third pitch. This was a great steep arete, delicate and well protected, and nice orange rock with great position. From the ledge you step right and instantly acquire an additional 100' of exposure.
Deposited on another wide rock ledge, we walked over to the left side to climb Rashomon up the last tier.
The views from the top were great, looking out to Steamboat Rock with the Prime Cut and The Men Of Banks Lake routes on the island in the foreground:
And north to the cove area, with a variety of water access routes on the island and penninsula, as well as some great basking and swimming beaches. Note that the penninsula can be reached on foot, so those routes (some of which are covered in Whitelaw's
Weekend Rock) can be done from the top by non-floating climbers.
As an aside on boat climbing, last summer I did the Bass-o-matic out of a boat and found boat based climbing less charming than I had imagined. It was a little windy, and combined with wakes from boats and jet skis, the aluminum belay skiff would bonk back and forth against the crag with alarming vigor. The #1 friend it was tied off to wasn't a great anchor, and the thought of pulling a piece and hitting the deck meant smashing into the boat, not some tidy deepwater solo splash. My verdict on belay from the boat climbing: meh.
We found a walk down from the top, and after getting back to the van we went for a refreshing dip in the lake and a little basking action. Renewed, we made the short approach back to the side of Highway Rock to climb Downtown, a fun easy climb with a spot of 5.10 thrown in on the traversing approach. A 5.6 leader could happily pendulum across this and have a good time.
NOTE: the 4th bolt is loose and needs to be tightened with a wrench, as does one of the rap bolts off the left side of the big ledge above.
Here's a bit of a rant: In several spots (mid pitch on Creamsicle and Downtown, very top of Highway Rock) we encountered brand new shiny open cold shut anchors. Did someone out there not get the memo that this jive is not really climbing hardware? It's a chain repair link, the rod meant to be driven through the eye and WELDED, not have some bolt put through the eye and hang ropes through the open hooks. I've seen these as anchors on hanging belays, and the damn things flex when people shift about. If you're out there installing these things, STOP IT. Use hangers with chain attached with a Rapide link instead.
And another thing: we're climbing with longer ropes than ever, so why do pitches keep getting shorter? Mid pitch stations on 140' routes? What, an ugly station just so you don't have to drag up a second rope? On Downtown, the guide even mentions that it takes two ropes to get down. If you're out there installing these things, STOP IT.
Jeezuz, it all makes me feel like Andy Rooney.
Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures from our second day, which we spent out by the Golf Course on a variety of face routes on excellent stone that was somewhat reminiscent of the City of Rocks. While LaBelle's guide states the main wall goes into shade at 10:30, I can assure you that this time of year it's more like 1:30. The tenuous nature of the trails here suggests that not many people climb there, but I'd highly recommend the routes on both the main wall and the two upper walls described in the guide.
Of course, we ended the day with another dip and bask session, and a pleasant drive home. Great trip with a fun partner.
