Static Point - The Granite Jihad 7/12/2008
Trip: Static Point - The Granite Jihad
Date: 7/12/2007
Trip Report:Climb: Static Point - The Granite Jihad, 5.10a, 2p, FA
Date of Climb: 07/12/2007
Trip Report:The previous week, when DavidW and I replaced some bolts on The Pillar, he'd noticed this line. It became the subject of our next visit, when he cruised it placing the bolts on lead. Afterwards, we rapped down Shock Treatment and replaced some more old steel.
The Granite Jihad
My cresting great grey granite jihad
No quest to find a personal god
But the pilgrimage was just the same
A search for adventure could be one claim
Otto on the third pitch of The Pillar route
We’d come for work and perverse play
High risk mechanics some might say
We’d changed old gear for something new
And always marveled for the view
Dan relaxing at the Pillar belay
But now an idea had worked its way
That even an old dog could have its day
Sweet granite previously viewed with dread
Its melody somehow left unsaid
David starting on the first pitch of the Jihad
I strained and searched for a way to believe
That the line of holds would not deceive
But rather lead me up from there
If only my heart would accept the dare
Looking up the first pitch of the Jihad, toward the Great Flake and beyond
For this I might need some credits accrued
From Allah or Krishna or some bearded dude
Who’d show me the way and make me the hold
And spare me the pain of being so bold
Crossing the Great Flake on the second pitch
The new route starts from the top of The Pillar feature, and climbs two pitches before connecting with Lost Charms.
The first pitch goes straight up a trough, passing five bolts to a double bolt belay.
The second pitch passes a bolt and heads up to the overlap. It goes up past two bolts and some gear opportunites, crosses over the Great Flake, and to a double bolt belay on the Lost Charms direct finish.
photography: Dan Dingle and Bill Enger, verse: David Whitelaw
