Wyoming Mashup - 5/20/2008
Trip: Wyoming Mashup -
Date: 5/20/2008
Trip Report:*Not sure if this belongs here or in the ice forum...?
Summary:Day 0: PDX -> SEA -> BZN -> Yellowstone National
Park Resort
Day 1: The Silver Cord (3 p/175 m), Yellowstone -> Devils Tower
Day 2: Devils Tower: Bon Homme (Horning Variation), Belle Fourche Buttress (1st 2 pitches), One way sunset (1st 2 pitches)
Day 3: McCarthy North Face (4 p)
Day 4: Devils tower -> BZN -> SEA -> PDX
Details:So after a great start to ice season it all came to a grinding halt when I took the plunge to purchase a second home and rent my first one (JayB enter stage left
). Two months of looking/inspecting/bidding/closing/packing/moving/unpacking/renting/etc etc flew by and suddenly it was May!
Shit! Where did ice season go!?!?
I wanted (needed???) a last ice fix before summer set in and it sure wasnt going to happen around here. I needed a partner and some ice pronto. I tracked down Bryan who had just finished his first semester of grad school unscaved and begged him into a little ice climbing. Made some calls and sent some emails and determined that assuming the road was open the silver cord would likely be in.
The Silver Cord Cascade:
Yes not my photo. And no I dont know the difference between a cascade and a waterfall.
The story with the Silver Cord is it is located in the grand canyon of Yellowstone National Park... the Cord most definitely forms every year however as the Park doesnt plow the roads in winter one either has to have a sled and/or ride the snow coach in addition to skinning to access the cord. Basically the math is 3 days for 175 meters of ice. So why not just wait until the road is open? Most years by the time the road is open/plowed the cord has already melted out. Due to these logistics involved the cord hasnt seen many ascents even though it checks in @ WI3+.
But we were in luck! The road was open (so they said... more later), the temps looked good so I packed my bags, threw in my rocks shoes in case the predicted west coast heat wave made it out east and hopped a plane to BZN. Bryan grabbed me @ the airport and we headed south. We managed to get to the park just before dark.
After some sleep we go back up and left the car by 5 am... we found the road wasnt actually open as far as they said it was so we walked some road to the trail head. As one walks along the top of the canyon rim you end up rapping down the cord and then climbing back out. We found the cord using JoJo's excellent beta, rapped the route, climbed and were back to the car by noon.
Grand Canyon of Yellowstone National Park:
!!!
Pitch 1:
Pitch 2:
Pitch 3:
Water ice in May... gotta love it.
We were hoping for some more ice so we called Jay @ the
Silvertip Mountain Center to see how things were holding up @ Cooke City. Jay told us things were sliding and it was suppose to be 60 tomorrow... alas: good bye 07/08 ice season
(though I hear Cali Ice is still in!)
After a quick soak in the boiling river we headed east for the devils tower.
Boiling River: Gotta love the natural hot springs
Moo?
We made it to Devils Tower by 11 or so... I'd never been to Devils Tower before so Bryan ran me around the next two days on a mini sampler of the tower (emphasis on mini... the tower is HUGE!).
Stem box:
Wide:
Hands:
5.5 my ass:
Tips to hands:
Woof?
McCarthy North Face:
Tips to ringlocks:
Summit views:
MisterE: eat your heart out 
Epilogue:So yeah: devils tower is worth the trip... I'm hoping to get back out there this fall. Hundreds of multipitch trad routes!
Cheers
to Bryan to another great trip, JoJo for
great beta, and
Frank for letting us dirtbag at his place
Gear Notes:BEAR SPRAY! We saw
lots of grizzly tracks
